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Donnerstag, 28. Oktober 2010

PARTIES OUTSIDE THE KPPP IN KABUL

May 9, 2010

Where to party in the world's war zones

Hardcore cities have hardcore clubbing scenes. Kate, 37, a TV news producer, reveals the secret party life of Kabul

The weekend starts on a Thursday in the Muslim world, and Kabul is no different. As the sun goes down, the devout turn their minds to prayer, but for the international crowd of journalists, diplomats, NGO workers and mercenaries, the weekend is all about chasing alcohol. It isn’t illegal, but the vice and virtue ministry introduced laws a few years back to make it far more difficult to get hold of. You can buy it in hotels, clubs and restaurants, but everyone has a bootlegger — either a diplomat selling off his extra supply or a well-connected local.
Last month, the government cracked down hard on anyone selling illegal alcohol, and the atmosphere has become much more tense, but the harder it is to get, the more people drink, and the fact that the main ingredient of every party is tinged with danger only adds to the charged atmosphere. In addition, many diplomats, UN and military types have curfews, and must be back on their compounds by 10pm, which intensifies the binge-drinking.
Popular hang-outs include the Kabul Health Club, with its organic menu, and the lovely outdoor pool at the Serena hotel. If we’re in the mood to party, we meet at Gandamak Lodge, owned by a former BBC cameraman, Peter Juvenal. The bar is themed around the Flashman books. The military love it. They throw a lot of black-tie dinners there, including the annual Trafalgar Ball, which commemorates British military victories.
If it’s a Friday, we go to L’Atmosphère, L’Atmo for short. It’s a very good French restaurant (excellent frog’s legs, foie gras and steak, and an impressive cellar), and there’s a bar and swimming pool. We arrive all covered up, but then strip down to sit by the pool.
The hedonism in Kabul is full-on, fast-paced and only for the hardcore, but I wouldn’t call it cool. I went to one party where a woman stood by the door flicking a light switch on and off — that was our disco. Things are looking up, though. A new dance club, Martini’s, which is owned by rich, well-connected Afghans, is extraordinary. Hidden on a residential street, it doesn’t have a sign. You have to know where it is, and there are armed guards on the door. You can’t blag your way in, you have to be on the list.
Inside, it is enormous and, with fake rustic wooden furniture and purple and green wall paper, like a bar in Shoreditch. The house drink is a pomegranate martini. There are DJs every Thursday and Friday, and the city’s hottest band, Kabul Dreams, played there recently — they do a mean cover of Oasis’s Wonderwall. There are lots of glammed-up blondes who look as if they have stepped out of Chelsea. They don’t wear miniskirts; it’s all about skinny jeans. The guys wear jeans, trendy trainers and beanies. Everyone dances downstairs, but the interesting stuff goes on in the upstairs VIP suite, which has a private entrance. Here, you might get a notorious local warlord mixing with It girls and the political elite.
Everyone is young, ambitious and keen to make contacts. The barriers you would normally find are down and sex is never far from the agenda. Men outnumber women, and they are always on the lookout. Their first interest is whether you are single and available. I heard of one party where guests had to jump into the pool to get condoms, but in any conflict area, that combo of a big NGO community, hacks and mercenaries is fiery.
Kabul has a dark side. Guns are everywhere and all the bars and restaurants have metal detectors. There’s a security lobby that you go through first, with signs reading “Drinking alcohol? No weapons”. The guards check your bag, then they open another door and you find yourself on a lawn or a path to the restaurant.
Most of the really rowdy stuff happens at private houses. People are wilder and feel able to let their hair down properly in private, especially since the government crackdowns on foreign drinking holes. It’s all about who you know. There’s a group of Old Etonian types who throw good parties. They love fancy dress and threw a hilarious “tarts and Taliban” party. Most people came as Taliban — it was easier to get away with the costume because of the security restrictions.
A few drinks on a Friday or Saturday often lead to an all-nighter. If you don’t have a good war story, you feel very left out. It’s all about who can tell the most gripping tale. In Kabul, you never know what’s going to happen the next day. There’s nothing fun about covering a breaking news story with a stonking hangover, but that’s no excuse to stay in.

KABUL POOL PARTY PROJECT (KPPP) IN AFGHANISTAN

KPP (Kabul Pool Party Project) is in touch with artists, activists, cultural institutions and development workers in Afghanistan in order to realize its project. See contribution March 2010. We need to tighten our network in Kabul in order to create a group of collaborators.

At a time when faith in the government is wavering and the Taliban are re-emerging, the role of independent media in the Afghan provinces is becoming increasingly important.  Internews http://www.internews.org/, with support from USAID, continues to ensure that independent media have a voice in Afghanistan, from large commercial radio stations to small community stations largely run by volunteers.
Internews Country Director Vanessa Johanson noted, “The enthusiasm of the station staff and community in Wardak to rebuild their station in cooperation with Internews is one indication that even in the most difficult conflict situations radio is a priority, indeed a necessity.”
The station manager at Radio Yawali Ghag, Mr Hazratuddin confirmed Johanson’s comments, “Our people are elated that we are back on air, especially the students and clerics.  They condemned the torching of the station and thought that the perpetrators were the enemies of our nation, culture and people.” 

Radio Yawali Ghag studio
Yawali Ghag is back on the air after being burnt to the ground in August by Taliban fighters.

 Radio is central to post-Taliban democratic development, particularly at the local level. A recent survey by the Asia Society found, – “more than half the people interviewed got their news from the radio – and said that they trust the broadcast media more than politicians or the courts.” 

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WOMEN ARTISTS

Female artists in Afghanistan try to benefit form a political breather and put some work out while the Taliban are getting stronger again and might participate in the government soon, what taht means for the women, they can only fear.

http://atwar.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/08/06/women-and-modern-art-in-afghanistan/



.Masks

A collaborative piece titled “Fall in Spring,” by Arefa Honryar, Zarghona Hotak, Sodaba Mehrayan, Sara Nabil and Arezo Waseq, part of the arts center’s exhibition


.Shout

‘Scream’, by Marzia Nazary, at the arts center’s exhibition.

Dienstag, 28. September 2010

Samstag, 17. Juli 2010

A TALE ABOUT PRISHTINA

Back in Skopje, Center for Photography
Yane and Elena at Pro Helvetia Skopje.
A catholic priest explaining the church gate's ornament to Sixten.
Martin and Elena interviewing a theorist in Sopje.
Taken from the bus – from Skopje to Prishtina
On the way to Satcion in Prishtina.
Albert at Stacion in Prishtina.

September 23/24, 2008, or, Two times 122 km

There is always a before (traveling)

As always, it takes other people to get your own shit running. In this case it all started with Sarah Lookofsky. We were both at the board of the catalogue committee for the megalomaniac Master of Arts exhibition of the eight Southern Californian art schools in Pasadena. This was in 2004. We kept in touch and three years later, the both of us won a curatorial competition to organize the international exhibition Land Grab at apexart in New York. It was at the opening of this show that I met Yane Calovski. He seemed to have fallen from the sky when he addressed me that night, as I hadn’t noticed him in the crowd before. Wearing big, black glasses and a broad grin, which seemed to reach from one end of his face to the other, he left a vivid impression on me. When we ran into each other again at an art fair in Rotterdam, I immediately remembered these two character traits. This second brief encounter was followed by a few emails and a phone call, which resulted in an invitation to come to Skopje and work at Press-to-exit, the art space Yane and Hristina Ivanoska are running. Yane showed up at apexart because of Albert, who participated in Land Grab. Albert Heta is an artist and the director of the contemporary art space, Stacion, in Prishtina. He runs this Center for Contemporary Art with the architect Vala Osmani. They have a child together whose godfather is Yane. Wooloo Productions, a Danish duo with an online art community, offered their online platform for an open call for Land Grab. Sarah and I went by the place where they housed a project in New York while we were setting up our show. During the sushi dinner that followed that night, we found out that Sixten’s life partner was the best friend of one of my friends, the Danish artist Bettina Camilla Vestergaard, whom I got to know in Los Angeles. Without this exhibition and the people I met through it a, by now four year long, study on the relationship of art and politics would not have taken place in that way, and this story could not have been told.

0

September 24, 2008. I looked over to Martin who stared out of the window. His posture communicated a state of contemplation, maybe surrender, too. His left hand rested on the seat before him, his right knee pulled up and squeezed in, in front of his chest. Sixten sat in the row behind me. He didn’t make a peep. We were exhausted from the attempt to be idiots. From the trial to care about what we felt and could not express instead of doing what we were expected to do. As we pulled out of the bus station in Prishtina, I asked myself why it felt so bad to be courageous? To disobey?

We were still shattered to the bones, trying to catch up with what had happened. Only half an hour ago, we had been sitting in the contemporary art space, Stacion, in Prishtina. I sat in the middle, with Sixten on my right, and Martin on my left. Three wooden chairs next to each other. Half in anger, half despairing that the crowd in front of us did not listen, our bodies started to stiffen. They didn’t want to hear that we didn’t know what to do. You are invited here, you have to deliver what you signed up for, you cannot come here and ask for something, you’re here to give, was the reaction to our deeply felt conviction that being in Prishtina, being in this part of the world (the east of Europe, the western Balkans, Ex-Yugoslavia – all naming is incompetent when it comes down to subjective histories) rendered us mute. And that this mattered. That in fact nothing else mattered but this. We were incapable of reproducing what we had in mind initially when we got invited to the workshop on ‘Politics of Contemporary Art’. We felt the need to rebel against the way things were done (in the West, in the art world). To copy that, to copy ourselves, our own boring gestures, while we actually seemed to be absent or displaced in this here and now, not “at home”, not in language, felt wrong. It felt impossible. We had something to say, the idiot has something to say, the problem is not a lack of output, but that there is no one on the other end who comprehends. Although, Albert did, he got it right away. He showed the right sense of humor or cynicism. It must have all sounded a bit blunt, careless, and maybe even arrogant to the audience consisting of younger artists and theorists from Kosovo, Serbia, Montenegro, Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Slovenia and Croatia. Were we behaving childishly, insisting on, or revolutionary, or simply irresponsibly? Unanswerable? I remember pulling my right leg up at one point and shoving my boot under my buttocks in an act of suppressed fury. I was leaning forward and I was, quite likely, shouting too. I was sweating. I turned my head left and right. Martin and Sixten sat there in silence. Not at ease at all, they tried to cut in, a bit uninspired and without much success. In the end we probably achieved what we wanted to prevent by all means. We tried to say: you don’t have to listen to our story, you have nothing to learn from us, you have seen things we cannot even imagine (does that give one the right to ask about it?), you tell us. But they did listen, and they got upset and they did not talk. At least not about themselves, but they did talk about us, we were incapable of shifting to focus. I don’t think we were surprised, but we became frustrated anyway. Probably more with ourselves then with our audience. We knew we had fucked up but couldn’t do anything about it. (I remember Ambassador Richard Holbrooke the architect of the peace accord in Dayton for Ex-Yugoslavia, and what he had achieved by means of talking and listening. “How to end a war?” – I should finally read that book.) We hadn’t had the chance to prepare our speechlessness, to translate it into a clever act of communication. The need to not talk but listen hit us, and we were still tumbling from the blow. We felt horribly sensitized. We were helpless as how to transfer this need to a local audience or to function in a workshop structure that, all the same, we absolutely wanted to contribute to. We had something to say, we just didn’t know how. And we could not give up on the importance of that ignorance.

1

September 23, 2008. It was early in the morning when we left the house in Skopje. Our group of three was in a subdued mood. A friendly lazymouthedness that would soon change into a wave of exhilaration, and, a by now, well-acquainted series of slow morning jokes letting us slide unhurriedly into the fullness of the day. We were in this part of the world – the so-called western Balkans or the east of Europe – to investigate precisely this – the confusion of naming and belonging. The idea of the West and where it finds its end, its limitations, not so much geographically, as there clearly is no limit there, you can always go further west, but mentally, historically or psychologically within the framework of self-identification. Where does this label “the West” expire, where do people not care anymore which side they belong to? I had just written up a concept for an investigation dealing with these and acquainted questions, when I got invited to do a curatorial residency at Press-to-exit in Skopje. I decided to take the Wooloo Productions along.

The taxi driver ignored our attempts to get through to him, or maybe he was just not a morning person. I remember Martin’s black leather jacket, and Sixten’s piercing blue eyes communicating an alertness that his, still tired, body could not live up to yet. I was clearly under the weather, too, as I had had a bad cold since day one in Macedonia. My sinuses were inflamed, a reaction to my exhausted physical state. What might have slowed down my recovery was the fact that the streets of Skopje were filled with cars that polluted the air to a degree that I have not experienced before, not in L.A., not in New York, or London. Most of these vehicles were third rate cars from Western Europe being sold on in the east, where everyone wants a car and drives whatever is available, and, more significantly, affordable. Breathing got hard in some parts of the city, especially when your nose is blocked and your throat burns like hell already. I believe it was raining that morning but maybe I am mistaking the grey and dreary look of that early fall day in retrospect for something it was not. I might misremember a lot but not the feeling inside me that I was off to see something important in my life. We were headed to Prishtina, and that was not a small thing.

After a short taxi drive, we got to the bus station in Skopje. We bought our tickets in the busy waiting hall and found our vehicle in the outside car park without difficulty. We sat down somewhere in the middle of the bus, amongst a crowd of people, mostly men, who probably did that trip every morning to go to work. We were guessing and knew we wouldn’t get it right anyway. I remember vaguely that at some point we started to throw questions in English into the open to see whether someone would understand us and could reply. We were eager to know and unashamed enough to try all means at hand. We had done street interviews in Skopje, in the centre, at the big market and in the Jewish quarter just the day before, with people selling stuff of all kinds. We had chatted with a local music star that we had come across by coincidence and had followed for a while, and with other people, most of which would not speak English but use their own language and individual gestures. We would listen, observe and reply with smiles, words and nods. The exchange seemed enriching for both sides.

Once in the bus, I looked at my Danish friends. We stood out. A bit too blond, a bit too excited, roaming about in our seats like little children on a church bank while everyone else was just there, unaffected, in routine. Was this man going to see his sister again after many years of silence, his sister who had five children and a sick mother to take care of with no job and no man in the house? Hardly. Maybe he just wanted to buy a lamp in Prishtina he could not find in Skopje. And the young man before me, was he nervous because he was going to interview for a job in a hotel, something he never wanted to do and at the same time was anguished to mess up? It could as well be that he was just itchy from a late mosquito bite. In about thirty-two hours I would take a picture of Martin, then sitting at the window on the other side of the aisle. Silent, exhausted, looking out of the bus window with one hand holding on to something, one knee pulled up and pressed against the seat in front of him.

Apart from these initial observations and thoughts, I don’t recall much of the bus drive or the landscape of the first part of the trip, before we hit the border to the Republic of Kosovo, or Kosova, as Albert calls his country. I guess, I had been falling in and out of a deeply needed series of naps. We drove uphill on a meandering street, and drove past a green woody area before we stopped at the border. The abundance of bright green leaves, dewy, moist (maybe it really did rain that morning) took me by surprise. I felt welcomed, and that seemed vital for a moment. I should have prepared myself – for Prishtina, the workshop at Stacion, and Albert, who had invited us, but I did not.

At the border the bus stopped. We sat there for what seemed a rather long time. The border control collected most passports but only checked ours. The officials were not friendly, and not unfriendly. It was the usual wordless act of power that is imposed on all people crossing borders around the globe; this was not Gaza or Afghanistan, and still, it made me nervous. I watched every single move of the guards, their eyes and hands. The driver let the engine run the whole time through. When we drove out of the border control building, I was relieved that my body was finally taken elsewhere. The landscape that opened up in front of us was flat with hills in the far, it seemed dry, although I remember green patches and bits of woods. The villages we drove through appeared poor and were partly rebuilt with isolated houses in between them, building sites everywhere. I saw a lot of cement, men in leather jackets, women with head scarves, and kids walking, running, laughing.

2

And with these more tangible images, my mood changed. Something froze inside me, something got afraid.
I remembered that time; it was a good seventeen years ago, when I had read things about the war in Yugoslavia in the newspaper that would literally make me throw up. This was the first war in my life that I had followed with a fully developed political consciousness. It was the media that informed me every day, and it was not a distant description of war in a novel, or a biography. Of course it was still a safe 1250 kilometers away, but all the same, it had been the closest I had ever gotten to a misery of that dimension.
I knew people from Yugoslavia, the drama was not remote, and it had a tangible effect on my life, too. My family and I were dumbstruck when hearing about the rape camps and other cruelties only humans that go insane beyond salvation can come up with. (Is really everyone a victim in a war?) We were in pain, the silent, burning pain of compassion. Why does another’s bad lot hurt us? Some say, it is because we are all always/already connected. We are all too close as human beings; this is the heavy part of belonging to this earthly race. Not that we do not understand each other, but we are too much the same. And what makes us turn away is not the misunderstanding, or that we’re fed up or bored or disgusted with someone. We are appalled with ourselves, the sheer possibility that we can fail, suffer and be destroyed too. L’enfer c’est l’autre.

After having learned about the rape camps, a distinct image, or rather scene, started to form in my head that I could not get rid of. As a matter of fact, it is still there, but it takes more will and time to recreate it now. I cannot say from where exactly I got it. Everything in it is in sepia brown. When I thought of the war back then, I saw a ramshackle gym hall with a row of school tables stacked one next to the other on one end of the room. Behind it I saw large windows reaching form the ceiling almost to the ground. The time was not detectable; it could have been night or day. Laid and stretched out on these tables were women of all age. Fully dressed, half dressed, half naked; some were completely naked, showing abused skin with bruises in all colors. Some were half dead, some were crying and shouting; some were silent in tears, whereas others seemed to breathe with difficulty or did not at all anymore. In front of every woman stood a long line of soldiers waiting to be next to climb on the tables to rape, or rape again. Many of the soldiers were drugged or drunk or in a state of frenzy; they did what they were told to do and sought in their own way to be absent while committing this crime. Their eyes were wandering around in hate and helplessness. Some wanted to run away and were held back; others were intently loud and aggressive to steam up the atmosphere. There was blood on the women and around them. Some had been pregnant, but by the end of the day, were not anymore. Some had lain there dead for hours already. Others tried to kill themselves but were hindered by the soldiers. Whenever this image started to manifest itself in my brain, I used to wonder whether the women would have looked at each other while this insanity was going on, trying to comfort each other, to tell each other that they must not feel shame. Trying to make one another understand that none of this was their fault and that none of this had to do with them. Were they trying to give each other little signs of humanity, or were they all drowning in humiliation?

My fantasies of these long lines of soldiers, and the women of all age suffering, the dying hands cramped into a soldier’s coat or shirt while the woman wanted to be as far away from that very body as possible. Being locked in by the perpetrator while fading, not free to turn one last time, to a blue sky, a friendly face, or just to see nothing. Brothers and sisters, uncles and aunts, mothers and sons, everyone against everyone.
I could hardly bear looking at my family in those days, the scene sat in my head so starkly, clouding all human interaction. To be told to kill what one loves, what one would die for oneself but wasn’t allowed to. Or to being forced to watch such a thing. Rape for ethnic cleansing happened in Kosovo at the border to Albania by Serbian militia. Rape was a way of dragging people down to the very bottom of the pit. It is the act of killing a person without dying. Women have to live with the memory and they have to face their parents. It is also an assault on a woman’s identity because they can end up giving birth to a child that is partly Serb.

My boyfriend at the time stopped making love to me, as he could not forget about the things he had read about.

3

I saw Prishtina in the far stretching out in front of us, encircled by a softly sloping row of hills. It was bigger than expected and then again smaller than history would make it sound. It looked grey, grey in shades of yellow and red. The newly built skyscrapers at the periphery of the city seemed to stand out too tall, out of place. I learned later that this was a new housing project for young families; these flats were less costly than the ones in the center.

We got out of the bus, and the first thing we realized was that we had no Euros on us; our Macedonian denars were useless here. We succeeded to buy some bananas anyway; we were starved. The name of the hotel we had to go to was well known to the taxi driver, and to the little crowd of his peers that soon gathered around us. All the same, everyone was pointing out something else on the map laid out on an engine hood, we laughed, while an impressive amount of fingers fluttered over the lines and color pads that symbolized the capital of Kosovo. The drive up to the hotel went smoothly, we drove past rows of city houses, bars and little grocery stores. There were not that many people in the street. The mood in the city seemed somber and controlled. The taxi stopped opposite from the address we were meant to be taken to, the Grand Hotel, in the city center. We walked into the hotel hall, and I checked in. My two companions were accommodated with a young curator from London who was also in the city for the workshop at Stacion. They had to sleep on the floor; I believe I felt treated like a queen, and Martin and Sixten were like my private slaves. We made jokes about this. They often sensed that they were not living up to the macho standard of the city and were looked down at. Both fled more than one bar feeling out of sorts.

After checking in, we did what most Westerners do in Prishtina – we sat in the waiting hall of the Grand Hotel and drank cappuccino. We were waiting for a coworker of Stacion to take us to the place. All the suits I saw, men in black, pretty waiters and a lot of gentle arrogance lying in the air, impressed me. The Grand Hotel was famous for its melting pot grandezza. I remember an article by the BBC news about this location. The author stated that, while everyone’s lives have been changed by the war, the centre of Prishtina seemed little damaged, at least compared with some of Kosovo’s other towns. Many of the shops were open; some of those formerly run by Serbs have simply been taken over by returning Albanians. He further was asking himself who was owning what in Kosovo these days, what belonged to the Serbs, what to the workers of Kosovo and what to the Albanians, including this hotel.

Although, we had never seen the person from Stacion before, we could spot her immediately when she entered the hotel hall. She was a global art world fashionada, accepting the current western law of style. Wearing a bit more color than everyone else, the right kind of shoes, the apt type of scarf in terms of the pattern and the way it was knotted. She took us to the art space along the main street. On the way I saw a large collection of letter-sized color photographs of young men (being missed from the war?) hanging on a white gate in the center of the city along the main street; nobody seemed to be interested in them but me. I passed women fully covered from head to toe and others being dresses according to a more western style. Older men were walking in clusters blocking the rather wide walkway. Stacion sat neatly on the left to an ample gate entrance. It looked like a little church with a star on the back entrance. We had to walk around it in order to enter the building through the front door. On a green patch next to it, a bunch of kids were playing soccer. Stacion is not hidden away, and still, one is doomed to miss it if looking for it for the first time. It was impressively neat and spacious inside, with an upper office floor; rough and refined in its architecture. What struck me, though, was how invasive the visual language of the Western art world is. One can go almost anywhere on this planet, but the way art spaces are set up would look consistently the same – if affordable, everyone cuts into this long chain of copies of copies of white cubes. And Stacion could afford it, it seemed.

When I was looking for a public toilet in the streets around Stacion, I entered two or three coffee places until I found one. There was one opposite the art space, in the building of a former museum or academia, but Albert didn’t want me to go there. His male guests he warned too, but without the same perseverance. I also came by what must have been a traditional, old-fashioned looking cafe, for men only, which was located at the main street. I knew these generous and often beautifully decorated spaces from Morocco and Casablanca, especially. Although there they usually have been stuffed. I was lured closer by the colorful walls and the enticing windows that went all the way from the ceiling down to the floor. Whenever I passed there I could make out a handful of men lying and sitting on long benches, casually, with their backs to the street, or not, smoking the pipe, drinking tea, looking lazy and important. I wished I could hang among them; it sure seemed like a world of its own worth being part of, zoomed off from the rest, from stink and noise, and anything that could trouble humankind.

After having inspected Stacion, Albert and I were browsing several streets in the center trying to find this one special coffee place he wanted to take me to. A little path led us through a housing complex in the back yard of a smaller row of houses. We passed parked cars and jumped over puddles of rainwater. When we finally found the place and stepped inside, we were hit by an impenetrable wall of cigarette smoke. We turned on our heels and jumped back out of it. (In Skopje a law against spitting in public had been implemented – to comply with European standards a bit more, someone suggested to me, while Macedonia was still waiting to become a full EU-member. When would Kosovo be pushed to introduce the smoking ban on public spaces?) I only got a quick glance at the flowery wallpaper and second-hand wooden furniture. Although, “second-hand” might not be the right term to apply here. The next place we entered was a more conventional bar; the interior was hard to make out, as the room was stacked with people, a youngish and middle-aged crowd, well dressed and expressive. Albert and I sat down on a couch, squeezed in between a group of people he knew. For a moment we could talk, about our expectations of the workshop, about Albert in Kosovo, who I saw for the first time again after the Albert I got to know in New York. About him as a dad, and as an arts organizer and artist. I tried to invite him for a talk at the Kunsthalle Luzern just a few weeks before, but the visum didn’t get through in time. We had worked on both sides, Prishtina and Luzern to advance things, but the Swiss Embassy in Pristina had been unimpressed by my phone calls and Albert’s many visits there. How easy it was for me, a Swiss person, to travel almost anywhere, and how different it was for a Kosovar, a EU-citizen, by all means. He depended fully on official invitations. I even had to sign a statement saying that I would cover all unruly costs created by my guest during his stay in Switzerland. We were laughing about it now. I told him that I was sitting here with him realizing that for the first time I consciously shared a room with people who have fought in a war. Of course I knew people in New York and Los Angeles who had done the same, but this was the first time I was physically present in that very war zone. I told Albert that this knowledge made me itchy, and insecure. I had so many questions but thought that I should not pose them; that I had no right to ask or to know. War, in the end, is something very intimate. I was ashamed of my curiosity but also didn’t want to repress it. What happened to the art scene during the war? Albert said that some stopped doing art, for others it became existential. He had stopped. Albert fled to Skopje. How can we talk together, you and me, with such different backgrounds informing our lives? Just don’t talk about the war, if you want to achieve for us to exchange something, or produce something together. Start here and now. It was not what I wanted to hear. Again I was told that dwelling on differences doesn’t bring people closer. But how can we understand what we’re saying to each other when we don’t know where we’re coming from? A few hours later I would stumble over this exact mental hurdle, and I would have no means at hand to save me.

4

The next morning Martin, Sixten and I met up at the Grand Hotel coffee bar. The weather was sunny and we sat outside on the luscious black leather sofas. We had another round of cappuccinos, chatting along with the one waiter who kept saying “it’s all right” at the most improper moments. Mistaking the phrase for a synonym to say thank you, we were guessing. We tried to prepare for the workshop at Stacion where we were invited to introduce *"The Sahara Project: West, where is that?" The three of us together had only started to contemplate the issue of the West a good week ago at a curatorial residency in Skopje. Before that it had been I, alone, who had been concerned with the topic. It was the first time Wooloo Productions and internationalcoffeeshop.org worked together. As a consequence, these past days had evoked a million questions in our heads, which already had resulted in a handful of decisive experiences during our stay in Macedonia. We still felt very new – not just to the subject matter – but also to each other, we were not entirely sure how the other ticked and tripped. In that sense, we experienced a methodological caught-up. We had too little time to find a common language, at the same time we didn’t want to let just one of us talk, and decided to intensify our exchange over the coming days in “the East”. The topic was huge, our ambition remarkable, or insane. We enjoyed listening to each other’s uncertainties and sensitivities. It all made sense, and it all seemed to matter but we were realistic enough to know that we wouldn’t have the chance to mould these many ends and gaps together into one whole within the next four hours. In the end, we decided to not report on our project but to cut into the matter at hand directly instead of talking about it. No detour through the area of niceties and academic gepflogenheiten. After a long discussion we decided to sum our quest up as briefly as possible and thereby create a space for a potential discussion. We got rid of a large catalogue of questions, and reduced our list to one sentence: “How can we be of service to you?” We didn’t want to do something for them, but with or even to them. In the hope that we would learn to understand better where we were, and who they were in that presumed place.

The generation of people born around 1970 in the West and in the Balkans differed vastly in the way they experienced the world in their twenties. We wanted to, painfully, widen that gap between us and them to get a better viewpoint of one another. The global art world, although functioning internationally, has a way of flattening out all edges of difference through its rigid system of representation – of people, ideas, and products. It is a dangerous place in that it emphasizes on sameness, it drastically wants it, needs it, produces it in order to “draw numbers”, be sellable and attractive for a lot and in one glance. We knew enough about that; we played that card daily in our jobs. We wanted to get a chance to see, hear something else by giving something else. Something un-reflected, something that doesn’t fit. That was what we wanted and that was what we didn’t get. Maybe it was our fault, mistaking geography for reality. We were east of our west, but the east on-site had long caught up with the west, while the west (or we) still felt the need to hang on, to dwell, and to essentially analyze something that it could place outside of itself. It’s a narcissistic trait we wanted to break with but showed little talent in doing so.



There is always an after (traveling)

When we were back on the bus it felt like we had never left it. And everything that had happened was a bad and wonderful dream. We tried something imperfect. It sat in our silence, it sat in our bones. We were happy to be understood by a few, that was not the most sincere thing to happen, to get through to some, even to just one? I couldn’t say. Maybe not. What we tried would leave a mark. I would chew on this for a long time; in fact, a part of me would never really get out of this bus.


*In an article issued last year in the culture magazine La Lettre, the Russian, Germany-based philosopher Boris Groys puts his finger on a crucial cultural-historical landmark in order to explain the European understanding of the arts and its factual domination. Groys claims that the adoration of the art object in the Western hemisphere is directly linked with the idea of dignity with regard to the human being, in the humanistic traditional sense. In the arts as well as in the humanistic tradition, the object as well as the human body is considered untouchable – they can both be used as means but mustn’t be functionalized. This ideal is defined – and here lies the risk – as a genuinely European value, and the humanistic thought considered equivalent with European thought per se, states Boris Groys. Resulting from this conviction is the denial of the ability of dignity, humanity, democracy and tolerance to everything and everyone non-European, quasi per definitionem.

For a few decades now, a new order is rendering itself visible or audible in Europe, which is going beyond the separation into West, East, Central and Middle Europe, to name just a few “Europes”. It seems that the “West” moves steadily towards the “East” on the map and in people’s self-perception. Formerly set agreements seem to shift and stir, while one thought still stands there solidly: The idea of one real Europe within Europe. An idea, which is based on the European ideal – the Humanistic tradition itself being located in the West, the West of Europe, while the East (reaching beyond Europe) is planned to be ”converted” through economical and cultural funding and sponsoring. At the same time, more and more investors from the European and Asian East invest in mammoth culture projects in the West. The question resulting from all these observations and economical, cultural and political interdependences is: Where is the West, today, and what is its connection with a place formerly defined as “Europe”? The Sahara Project wants to discuss the “repressed part” (verfemter Teil, Groys) of the Western tradition of thought, that fraction of the humanistic tradition, which questions and always has self-critically interrogated the European hegemony and geographical position.

Crucial questions include the following:
– Where does the West end, where does the East start and based on what historical and present-day consciousness within the arts?
– Can the terms “East” and “West” still be applied in any illuminating way, especially with regard to an internationally connected and globally communicating art world? If it is, what and who profits from it and what does it mean to be from the “East” or the “West”?  If the terms “East” and “West” cannot satisfactorily be applied for a political, personal and artistic state of being – what terms or concepts could we replace them with?
– Is there a border-free/transgressing art (practice) and who is receiving it?
– Central questions are: Does this “we” even exist, in the West, or the East, and whom would it include?

The Sahara Project attests: We stand in the desert, and we stand there together. Paralyzed between how to overcome cultural stereotypes and an art terminology that needs further distinction and accuracy, feeling estranged, not at home within one’s own geographical accountings and (second-hand) reflections in the world. The Sahara Project wants to attempt to step across this polarity of East and West with the question “West, where is that?” and gather representatives of both sides researching mutual fantasies, visions, as well as images of envy and disgust.

Lillian Fellmann, 2010

This article is part of a publication issued by Vision Forum called "Travels – placeless place", edited by Louise Nilsson and Lisa Boström.

Mittwoch, 24. März 2010

Skopje, Prishtina: THE SAHARA PROJECT: WEST, WHERE IS THAT? (2008, ongoing)

In an article issued last year in the culture magazine La Lettre, the Russian, Germany-based philosopher Boris Groys puts his finger on a crucial cultural-historical landmark in order to explain the European understanding of the arts and its factual domination. Groys claims that the adoration of the art object in the Western hemisphere is directly linked with the idea of dignity with regard to the human being in the humanistic traditional sense. In the arts as well as in the humanistic tradition, the object as well as the human body are considered untouchable - they both can by used as a means but mustn’t be functionalized. This ideal is defined –- and here lies the risk - as a genuinely European value, and the humanistic thought considered equivalent with European thought per se, states Boris Groys. Resulting from this conviction is the denial of the ability of dignity, humanity, democracy and tolerance to everything and everyone non-European, quasi per definitionem. 

For a few decades now, a new order is rendering itself visible or audible in Europe, which is going beyond the separation into West, East, Central and Middle Europe, to name just a few “Europes”. It seems that the ‘West’ moves steadily East-towards on the map and in people’s self-perception. Formerly set agreements seem to shift and stir, while one thought still stands there solidly: The idea of one real Europe within Europe, which is based on the European ideal - the Humanistic tradition itself being located in the West, the West of Europe, while the East (reaching beyond Europe) is planned to be ”converted” through economical and cultural funding and sponsoring. At the same time, more and more investors from the European and Asian East invest in mammoth culture projects in the West or West-West. The question resulting form all these observations and economical, cultural and political interdependences is: Where is the West, today, and what is it’s connection with a place formerly defined as ‘Europe’?

The Sahara Project wants to discuss the “repressed part” (verfemter Teil, Groys) of the Western tradition of thought, that fraction, which questions and always has interrogated the European hegemony and geographical position. 

Crucial questions include the following: 

- Where does the West end, where does the East start and based on what historical and present-day consciousness within the arts?

- Can the terms ‘East’ and ‘West’ still be applied in any illuminating way, especially with regard to an internationally connected and globally communicating art world? 
If it is, what and who profits from it and what does it mean to be form the ‘East’ or the ‘West’?  
If the terms ‘East’ and ‘West’ cannot satisfactorily be applied for a political, personal and artistic state of being what terms or concepts could we replace them with? 

- Is there a border free/transgressing art (practice) and who is receiving it?

- Central questions are: Does this “we” even exist, in the West, or the East, and whom would it include?

The Sahara Project attests: We stand in the desert, and we stand there together. Paralyzed between overcome cultural stereotypes and an art terminology that needs further distinction and accuracy, feeling estranged, not at home within ones own geographical accountings and (second-hand) reflections in the world. The Sahara Project wants to attempt to step across this polarity of East and West with the question “West, where is that?” and gather representatives of both sides researching mutual fantasies, visions, as well as images of envy and disgust. 

These questions were dealt with during a curatorial residence at the contemporary project space Press-to-exit in Skopje. An intermediary, reflective halt of the ongoing research was presented at the Center for Photography in Skopje. This presentation followed an invitation from stacion, contemporary art space in Prishtina, to participate in a work shop, and tried to include the decisive observations and experiences made in the capital of the newly born Republic of Kosovo.
In collaboration with Wooloo Productions, Kopenhagen.
Idea and concept: internationalcoffeeshop.org

Sonntag, 14. März 2010

New York, Latvia, MUSE (2010-11) (in process)


MUSE (Working Title)
Muses in mythology are the goddesses or spirits who inspire the creation of literature and the arts. They were considered the source of the knowledge that was contained in poetic lyrics and myths. This project invites a diverse group of Latvian artists to search for their muse in New York.

New York is a city people from all over the world go to in order to seek out inspiration. But what does it mean to look for someone who is the source of knowledge toward ones own life? What personal (psychological) and social effects does such a search have? How many people does one have to meet until there is one that is truly an inspiration to ones own being and wanting, a true muse, if you will? Is there a method that can be applied to something so intimate and existential, as well as public and political? Last but not least: Does the idea of a muse differ among cultures?

Latvians are said to live along the line of confrontation between East and West, occupying a space diffuse in the political, demographic and philosophical sense; a space where the assessment and evaluation of its nation by the participants tends to be diplomatically evasive. Locked in between Estonia, Lithuania, Russia, and Belarus, post-communist since 1991 and part of the EU since 2004, what does it mean for Latvians to look for their muse elsewhere, in the US, and in New York precisely? Who lures the eye, what is absurd or even obscene, more specifically, how do they read the city, reject and penetrate it while probing something, someone all creation is in need of?  

Vito Acconci and Sophie Calle, among other artists, both followed a stranger in the public space, someone whom they found attractive or made them curious. This project goes one step further. The artists invited are meant to not only fantasize and stalk but also search and meet their muse. To wander the streets of New York, to take risks and decrease distance at their own speed.

The Apex Art gallery space will be used as a studio (to dwell on methods, gather collected findings, and to track ones one meandering), a meeting place for artists and (potential) muses, and for public reports on the ongoing query. Every artist will finalize his/her search with one (or more) public talk, which can include all the people that were important for the search, or the muse/s only. If no muse can be found, then the method and ways of looking for it will be presented to a public and visualized in the space. Weekly updates among the participants will be held at the gallery space, they will be open for the public. The artists work with different media, and will introduce their approach to the task at the opening night.
The selected artists will be living in New York homes for the duration of their engagement. These places mark the points of departure for the individual queries. It is quite likely that the artists will have to move several times; this New York reality has to play into their experience of the place, and the idea of finding a muse in this city. They will start off living with a person of their choice, someone they know, or someone whom they feel could be helpful for their task, or even a person they consider a muse already. The curatorial team will organize these (free) accommodations for them.

Interested artists are Dmitrijs Lavrentjevs (born 1970), painter, Edmunds Lūcis (born 1959), multi-meadia, Uģis Prauliņš (born 1957), composer, audio producer, sound engineer, Rūta Mežavilka (born 1971), poet, writer, journalist, Edgars Mucenieks (born 1965), performance, installation.

The project is organized by Evelina Vanaga, curator, Luzern/Riga, and Lillian Fellmann, curator, journalist, Luzern/Amsterdam. 

Afghanistan – KABUL POOL PARTY PROJECT (KPPP)

PROPOSAL
POOL PARTY KABUL


We are intrigued with the Olympic swimming pool on top of Tapa Bibi Mahroo in Kabul. The amenity was built by the occupying Soviet forces in the 1980s, who were probably posted on the hill to watch out for Afghan mujahedin. It has never been officially used as a pool, because there was no way that even the Soviets could get water to travel uphill at such a steep angle. In the mid-1990s the Taliban pushed blindfolded criminal offenders from the highest springboard to test whether they would survive, if not they were sometimes still not freed but shot. Today kids play in the cement construction, men bet on their fighting hens or dogs in it, and every now and then after heavy rain fall one can cool off in it. This site of shabby majesty has never seen much water or collective happiness. We would like to change that by organizing an international pool party. The project aims at putting a group of local and foreign artists, Kabul children, students and other representatives from the city together to clean and paint the pool and find a way to fill it with water. (Maybe the water problems can be solved, by some Dutch water engineers?) If only for one day the place shall radiate with joy, music and splendor, and then remain as a colorful landmark to inspire new thoughts and creative use for local and international agents equally or collaboratively – be it as a swimming pool or not.



First we need to get in touch with the art and culture scene in Kabul, with the art school and the University, NGOs, municipal officials, construction companies, developers, international foundations, humanitarian aid workers to learn more about this landmark and to find some allies for this international project. Second we would need to go to Afghanistan in order to meet people, get acquainted with the site and figure out the practicalities and possible strategies. Back in Europe, we'd need to find the international collaborators and organize the financial means as well as logistics for this project. Right now Embassies around the world warn their citizens to not go to Afghanistan if not absolutely necessary; an exact schedule for this project can therefore not be given at this point in time. But it sure can be started now, and be assessed later in the year.

The team consists of Pier Taylor, researcher and graphic designer from Holland, and Lillian Fellmann, Swiss curator and journalist. It is possible that we would need to add co-workers later for translation, administration, organization, communication and documentation of this ambitious vision.

February 15, 2010

Montag, 8. März 2010

Tokyo, TOKYO WONDER SITE (April/May 2009)



I have spent one month at Tokyo Wonder Site in order to research the local art scene. Which is of course an unrealistic ambition and megalomaniac fantasy within such a short time frame. Plus, no “scene” can ever be comprehended by sitting down with individuals in a room alone. No matter how deep the exchange.
A wholesome experience includes close-up observations of this glimmering monolith that is constantly changing its shape and content and still remains recognizable. It takes intense field research, plunging in, visiting not only exhibitions, openings and artist talks, which I did, but also hanging out after the
official part is over. Sitting in bars, discos, do home visits, join cigarettes and ping-pong games and picnics in parks. The latter few I was not too good at, being five months pregnant I surely felt my energy limits.
What I did, though, was to meet with about thirty artists for portfolio reviews. I chose them after a rigorous research time of almost three weeks where I was wandering around Tokyo visiting galleries, museum and art spaces, talked to curators and museum directors to figure out who is in and who is not, what names where spilled at me and what was left unsaid. I worked through all the portfolios at Tokyo Wonder Site and received many useful tips from its curatorial team. I did not have the energy to go and visit all of the short listed artists in their respective studios in Tokyo and outside of it, which would have surely been critical and insightful with regard to the working context and living conditions of each one of them. Lucky enough, most of the artists could come out to meet me in Shibuya. We met at Tokyo Wonder Site where we discussed their work and exchanged ideas of the role of the artist in Japanese society today. Mostly with a translator sitting in with us.


It was interesting to learn how it seems to be much harder for Japanese artists (than for Swiss ones) to position themselves in society. Maybe I overlooked it, or it got lost in the translation but it seemed to me that there was only one door they all wanted to enter the art world, and that door did not read “resistance”. One of them mentioned the need to be different as an artist, and he explained to me how he would discover little things about him, habits, that he trained himself in in order to develop something like another view on things, to separate himself from the mass – like working at night only or cycling to avoid the masses. For most of them this step away from something like an unquestioned authority came natural to a certain extend, while it seemed that a veil of obedience still clung to their deepest sense of being, more of a guilt (or a habit?) than a responsibility towards society that they could not free themselves off. One artist very bluntly explained to me that it is hard to think independently, against the stream, as a creative islander and still move unharmed and joyfully in the Japanese society. The contemporary Japanese artist is still busying her/himself with aesthetics, not social or political dis/engagement, or the suggestion of alternatives to the society he/she lives in. Although global topics like ecology, cultural practices and new social needs are present in the art world; they appear to be set by the ones who entertain the scene financially. But maybe that is not so different anywhere else in the world, and it is especially transparent in countries with relatively young contemporary art scenes.


Time was the one single topic almost every artist had a take on, and not seldom a personal philosophy to share with me. An abundance of patience can be tracked or sensed in the young Japanese art, a deep love for time and duration, repetition and private historisization. There seemed to be no rush, and hardly any loudness expressed. Rarely I could find some cracks and something like violence shining through the colors and detailed arrangements of lines and thoughts. And where something dark was expressed it was laid out in exuberant beauty and precision – evoking an unnerving blindness in the viewer, a hunger to understand, to be allowed to enter the secret. There is an enormous quality in that, the gift of calmness given to the onlooker. Maybe it also comments on the fact that the Japanese artists still need to learn to bite the hand that feeds them. But how is art made political in Japan, then? As was pointed out to me, in contrast to Western style, Japanese tradition expresses what cannot be said. And maybe something like resistance and critique, which we are so ridiculously good at uttering in the West, is actually too blunt to transgress into a piece of art? I would not necessarily agree with that, nor would most artists I met.


The role of the artist in Japanese society I cannot conclude from the numerous but brief conversations I took pleasure in. All the same, it is a residence like the one I was so fortunate to benefit from at Tokyo Wonder Site that helps rising more refined and fastidious questions about this topic, it is a residency like this that stirs curiosity and respect for each other, which I in general deem more important than understanding.



These are the people I met:
Daisuke Nagaoka (http://yukikokawase.free.fr/Daisuke%20Nagaoka.htm). Daisuke told me that he was interested in the relationship of animal and human being, or rather the unnameable space or moment when one transforms into the other, where one is the other. He is interested in the damage these two entities or realms can do to each other. Another focus are his drawing/erasing pieces that he shows as short movies. With these he draws and immediately eliminates and changes certain aspects of it, the erasure is comparable to the cutting in a move, but softer and more partial. All the same, the effect is a change of scene and composition.

Chikara Matsumoto (http://www.2dk.net/urbanlenz/artists/e-Chikara.html) often draws ghosts. He nurtures his very own understanding of time, night and day. Chikara told me that it is essential for him to be awake at night and cycle through the city in order to get a chance to look at things how they are when all the hustle and bustle is over, and the human being is gone. It is his form of soft revolution against a very strict and authoritarian societal norm most Japanese must follow.

His animation work is lyrical and translunary. Matsumoto shot hundreds of hand-painted pieces by time-release to make the animation, which made the response and the motion magically wrap around each other. The wired but charming characters create the unique world of picture story books you read in childhood. "The invisible, but certainly existing important things. The ghosts in my animation admittedly float there and sing a song which is a mixture of anxiety and hope."

Tabata Kouichi (http://www.kouichitabata.com) produces next to paintings, collages and new forms of media, short movies that are based on drawings. The content is mostly very focused and uncomplicated - we see a fly, or a flower. It is his decision on the amount of frames and the time span, in which they are shown that translates the drawings into delicately trembling icons of timelessness and beauty.  

Aiko Miyanaga (http://www.aiko-m.com/) and I met when I have seen here work already in two places, in a solo show at the xx gallery, and at the NACT, where she was part of an emerging artist show. "The way my creation shifts unveils the fragility and uncertainty of the moment, and tells us how powerful our memory can be". Miyanaga specializes in site-specific installations. While she chooses materials and media according to the occasion, her most typical and original material of choice is naphthalene. She uses the material to form life-sized shoes, hats or cell phones, which she then places in glass cases on top of light boxes or other devices that radiate heat, as a result of which the objects slowly evaporate. These works are made of the same material as mothballs, which gradually loses shape and ultimately disappears. Miyanaga lets her works evaporate, however this doesn't mean that she just puts them somewhere and leaves the rest to fate. As she controls the time it takes for a work to disappear depending on the duration of the respective exhibition, there are naturally works that exist for just a few days, and others that stay in shape up to the last day of the event. It also happens that things that have been hidden inside the white objects become visible toward the end of an exhibition. In all cases, seeing how the glass cases are gradually covered with pure white crystals is a truly beautiful sight. In the show I saw at NACT she had old cupboards piled up several meters high and placed some hand-made pots in them. 
Ken Hamaguchi, pinter

Kyoko Ebata  ( http://kyokoebata.blogspot.com/). SSamzie Space in Seoul in Conjunction with Tokyo Wonder Site's Bilateral Exchange Residency Program. result of accumulated lifetime experience of the individual concerned.

Miki Kubota (http://www.hpfrance.com/En/Art/) who refurbishes furniture by stripping it off its threedimensionality and lies it out flat or hangs it on the wall, like a squashed or ran over and the neatly assorted pray. This working process translates the furniture into a new object or subject - like an enormous bug for instance.
Let me start off with the list of artists, curators and museum directors I was so lucky to meet. Teppei Kaneuji's large scale exhibition and first solo show "melting city/empty forest" I saw at the Yokahama Art Museum (http://www.yaf.or.jp/yma/index.php), that showcases younger Japanese artists next to its collection exhibitions. His installation art concerns itself with silhouettes and boundaries. ooze, bleed and blue are prominent elements in Japanese art. The contours of letters in calligraphy, and smudges in ink painting are indispensible techniques when it comes to expressing the Japanese conection of time and space. It is basically the same thing that the blots' contours and the construction they produce do for Kaneuji, writes Yusaku Imamura, director of Tokyo Wondersite. The artist is also treasuring the idea of small events froming a huge phenomenon. http://teppeikaneuji.com/kaneuji_works.html

Daisuke Fukunaga (www.geocities.jp/mihokanno1980/fukunaga.html) paints the most ragged scenes and the objects left behind. Shabby empty lots, worn-out mops, and wastes… Neither human figure nor even traces are present in Fukunaga's paintings. Instead, the scenes and objects exist themselves, as if they have stripped away the use-values that are usually attached to them, and bizarreness and some kind of attractive madness can be sensed from them. 

Keisuke Kondo, 2007 Tokyo Wonder Site. 

Mayuko Yoshida, filled a small attic room with long white paper strips that almost completely cover up a wooden chair under them. The chair changes into something that fights for its life, that desperately wants to breath. The light paper seems all of a sudden beastly and painful, while the heavy material of the wooden chair appears fragile, endangered. Mayuko told me that she concerns herself with words, the space between them and the things that disappear when we use words. She translated her fascination with that topic into an installation containing a black, laid table. Laid out were texts written in Braille and spoons filled with the ashes of that same text. This piece brings together different works that the artist was unable to put into words. This shows a specific Japanese tradition where, unlike in the West, the things are shown which cannot be named. 

Dig & Bury Yuji Oda, Nobuhiko Terasawa (www.digandbury.jp, studio BUM) are a funnybunch of two artists who do it the other way. They don't look for white cubes and oher spaces to show their work. Far more important to them is the feeling that they cross boundaries, the limitations of their culture, a geographical border or the idea of art at large. They are good communicators, with wild ideas and a lot of energy. Their practice contains sth. that is rather rare in Japan, it is socially engaged, political and humorous (too take off the edges). Where American socially engaged art feels weighty, or if doen badly, heavy-handed, Japan practices often seem to feel the urge to laugh off or ridicule its own content, which must not be mixed up with a lack of seriosity or meaningfulness. The artist xxexplained to me that most contemporary art from Japan made by young Japanese does not dare yet to oppose the tight social structures, the expectancy of anyone to provide to the smooth stream – every one is a drop that leads into the same river, so said by Jürgen Staack (www.juergenstaack.com/), a German artist who resided at TWS with me. 

Kouichi Tabata, www.kouichitabata.com, from painting to animation to drawing in one frame, movement without motion.

Takashi Kuribayashi http://www.takakuri.net/, http://ameblo.jp/takakuri/, coceworks.com, lived in Germany, speaks German. He lives in Kamakura outside of Tokyo where he can afford a big studio place. He builds whole biotops including animals and plants into existing museum structures. His work unifies a strong care for the environment, a fierce joy to attack any space given and a intrusive sense of humor. 

Tatzu Nishi (http://www.tatzunishi.net) lives in Berlin. He showed at ARATANIURANO (www.arataniurano.com). His installation art turns public items like light posts  or monumental sculptures in a park into elements that belong to a private space. he does so by building a space around the object and closing it in with an intimate environment, mostly a mundane one, like a living room, or a kitchen. I met Tatzu at TWS where he carried his A3 catalogue of his latest work with him, and at the opening of his show. He had a street lamp installed so it would move through two of the gallery walls. The center piece was more of a mock instalation of his big pieces that he does in specific city areas, parks and other public spaces. (PS: He was surrounded by female fans and talked in a loud and exhilarated voice when we exchange our personal data.) 

Naoko Shiokawa was showing a series of photos from her own past in the Hongo exhibition space. She transformed them into monochrome images, blew them up and printed them on fabric. Then she sewed black pearls on the white parts and white pearls on the black parts, turning these memories into blurry images of uncertain moments of the past. The technique is more striking then the effect on site.

Soya Arakawa, socially engaged art (www.tacolv.com), we briefly talked at an opening at the French Embassy.
Ken Hamaguchi, whom I got to know through my friend Maki Sasaki. He depicts the stereotypical blond ind traditional Japanese bondage. His paintings appear inspired and tacky at the same time. Ken pointed out two books to me, both edited by Yuki Yamaguchi, an art lover who is invested in the collecting and presenting of contemporary Japanese art to a wider audience. The books Ken handed over to me carry the enthusing itles "A Guide to contemporary Japanese Art" and "The Power of contemporary Japanese Art". I believe that she is one of the rare people who put out such books in English. 

Elisabeth, magegf@yahoo.com moved away to London.

Toru Kuwakubo (http://www.galeriedavidegallo.com/index.php?id=exhibition_kuwakubo, kuwakubo@yahoo.co.jp) is a painter that is capable of sharing his wonderful world of sarcastic, sad, entertaining scenes where people busy themselves standing in the outside, a landscape with often mundane actions. The pure solidity and sincerity of the scenes and the unique arrangament of layers makes his paintings like the "Men with the white boxes", or "Dig, dig, dig" spread a unique mix of humor, sadness and senseless endeavor. 

Yoshiaki Kaihatsu (http://www.yoshiakikaihatsu.com/) Performance
Jun Kitagawa  (www.kitagawajun.com)

    snow balloon in odawara 2008 (kanagawaÅj.JPG
Jun Kitagawa  (www.kitagawajun.com)

1a30.jpg
Jun Kitagawa  (www.kitagawajun.com)


Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, www.mot-art-museum.jp: Ryoji Ikeda +/- (the infinite between 0 and 1) escaped my interest. It seemed that size mattered a bit too much fo rthis work in order to be captivating, and once blown up in that dimension, which it well might deserve, the work became decoration.  A wallpaper of changing numbers and current data that should impress us by the pure fact that all this information is the expression of the "now", of something that is or happens at that very moment when we stand in front of it, and is brought to our awareness as impenetrable data mesmerizing due to its enormous abundance. Some rooms we could only enter with our shoes taken off. 

We didn't make it, I don't remember whether Ryosuke Hara cancelled on me, or I on him, unfortunately. 
Instead I met with the German artist Bodo Korsig (http://www.korsig.com/) several times and went to his show at Makii Masaru Fine Arts, where I met Kaori Satou, the gallery manager.
I talked to the  Sawako Fukai, the manager of G/P Gallery, they very actively promote photography and regularly organize public portfolio reviews for curators. 
Leo Kadele, http://leokadele.googlepages.com, www.maxartfest.com, director, is an artist from Croatia who tested the Japanese public with his playful and positively confrontative performances.
Yoshioki Kaihatsu
Ryota Katsukura, photographer, I met this talented artist at the portfolio review at TWS Hongo. A lot of fantastic portfolios were laid out in a much too small and scorching space. The ambiance was exhilarated and when I got there the students and artists where starting to open a few bottles shaking off the day's nervousness.

The artist Shinji Ohmaki whose work I have studied carefully in many catalogues, I did not meet. The same accounts for Meo Saito whose work is most impressive, an mind-blowing testament to the Japan of the past and the present. Told in a contemporary painting style and framed by intelligent as well as most delicate means of form  – producing a sheer unbearable beauty of content and wisdom. The preparation per painting of her "Wreath"-series takes her over a month per piece, applying over twenty layers of pigment, carbonic acid and glue to the fabric. Her paintings are so painstakingly executed that her work has been blown up for teh show at NACT. 
I saw their work but missed to meet them in person due to my being sick at the Open Studios event: Daisuke Fukunaga, Soshiro Matsunaga, Masaya Chiba, Yosuke Amemiya
Kyoko Jimbo, curator, Tokyo Metropolitain Museum of Photography.
One of the most surprising and uplifting encounters was my meeting with Mr. Taro Amano, Chief curator at Yokohama Art Museum, and Ms. Eriko Osaka, director at the Yokohama Museum of Art. They both showed a great interest in my experience as the director of the Kunsthalle Luzern and the chance to network. Ms. Osaka was off to the Venice Biennale the next day. There and back in 3 days, I believe. Yokohama Museum of Art was founded in 1989, is located in the futuristic Minato Mirai 21 district of Yokohama city next to the Yokohama Landmark Tower, the tallest building in Japan. The also co-curate the Yokohama Triennale.
Taro took me to the exciting BankArt (www.bankart1929.com) venue where i met the director, Osamu Ikeda, who showed me around in these loft premises at the harbor of Yokohama. A very trendy and attractive spot entailing a restaurant and outside bar and performance area. The place also hosts a school:

The unique aspect of BankART’s school is not simply 
the course offerings so much as its status as an 
accredited educational institution, albeit a small one. 
Eight units accumulated over a two-month period earn 
one credit. Classes meet daily Monday thru Saturday in 
small groups of no more than twenty people. Featuring 
more advanced classes at the lifelong learning and 
graduate levels, the school aspires to serve as a 
modern-day “temple school,” or terakoya, a Buddhist 
educational facility popular in the Edo period (1603- 
1868) that encouraged high standards and diverse 
learning. To date, BankART has offered 80 courses to 
over 1000 students taught by 241 instructors and guest 
lecturers. Collaboration among students and between 
teachers and students is a vital dimension of the 
program. In a seminar on art criticism, for example, 
students produce independent works of criticism, and 
in a photography course, they hold a group exhibition. 
The classes foster teamwork, and even after these 
classes come to an end, relationships and artistic 
exchange continue. 


I met with Peter Nelson, responsible for Cultural and Public affairs at the Swiss Embassy, who was just about to leave his position for Washington. He told me how different it was in Japan from Switzerland to set up an exhibition coming from abroad and finding the venue and means for it. Relation building is key, one has to meet people over and over, to get a sense whom one has to talk to to make things happen and who is just there to get a sense of who you are. There are only a few residence places in Japan too, the general interest in collaborations with foreign institutes varies a lot. The Swiss Embassy is critically involved in suggesting creators-in-residence to TWS, as well as networking between Switzerland and Japan in general, or Tokyo specifically. 

I met Yayoi Motohashi-Mäki-Mantila, curator at the National Art Center Tokyo (http://www.nact.jp/english/index.html), in one of the spacious office hallways. We had tea and discussed the goals and desires of the National Art Center Tokyo comparing it to the Kunsthalle Luzern and other places abroad. Yayoi and I both were pregnant when we met, she was about to go into mother leave only about two days later to return only after a year. I was impressed and envy her, thinking of the meagre 14 weeks of mothers' leave I was looking into. 

My heartfelt thanks go out to Yusaku Imamura, Director/Counselor on Special Issues to the Governor Tokyo Metropolitan Government, Kayoko Iemura, Director of Arts Program and Residency Division – thanks for having me at your intriguing institute. Miwa Takamura, Arts Program Section, Yoshie Irie, Arts Program Section, and Miyoko Hoshino, Chief of Residency Program Curatorial Section, Azumi Akai, Curatorial Program, and the artist who work for TWS temporarily, I forgot his name – thanks for all the great guidance and tips that enriched my stay at TWS. And thanks to Taro for a wonderful spontaneous trip, and Hansjürg, the person who set this entire undertaking in motion. Atsushi Satake, hope to see you again, some time. 
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